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Squaw's Tit Traverse (east approach): Attempt |
Conditions: Dry |
| Elevation: 2400m | Gain: 1000m | Difficulty level: Hard |
| Total trip time: 7 hours | Ascent time: 2+ hrs | Conditions: Summer |
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Parking area: Harvie Heights (end of Cascade Rd) at the far north-eastern end of the hamlet.
WARNING: The proper approach (western) is to find the closest path to your parking area. There are numerous entry points along Cascade Rd (one is pictured to the right)
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| We decided to attempt a traverse of ST using an eastern approach and then descending along the typical western approach. (in truth, we hadn't bothered to look up the route) | ||
| ROUTE | |
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The official (western) approach is denoted by the
red line (left ridge). We approached via the green line from the east (right
ridge). The ridge was fun and similar to adjacent Lady Mac. Unfortunately, we were foiled by a 10m downclimb (right
picture), which might have been
feasible with rope. To compound matters, there was a sheer drop on either
side of the ridge. Back-tracing our steps to find a decent route forced us into a
gulley with sheer rock walls on either side.
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Much of the descent (800m) consisted of traverses with limited climbing and downclimbs as we attempted to avoid parts where the gulley would drop off precipitously
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We ended up trying to pick a path down the very narrow gulley
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Some parts being much less enjoyable than others:
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Thankfully, the holds were solid.
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| With a rope, things might have been different. However, since we didn't have one, it was an 800m stress filled decent with no means of turning back. Finally, at 200m we were able to scale one of the rock walls (right picture) and take a ridge line back. In the end, I'm unsure if the traverse is feasible, and it is certainly not without rope. | |
| On a positive note, we discovered the proper approach: Specifically, pick an entry point from Cascade Road, take one of the numerous paths heading right. Head up the first creek bed. At the first opportunity, climb up to the western (leftmost) ridge . Do not take the rightmost ridge (which can be accessed from Canmore). | |
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Trip Summary: Kiss but don't touch!
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