| ROUTE |
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From the parking area, follow
the old logging road (continuously bearing right). Keep heading right
until you reach the valley. Follow the path, which veers to the right and
leads up to the saddle above Smuts Pass/Birdwood Lakes. The scree leading to the saddle is
almost pleasant (at least in comparison to the tree infested bushwacking
in the avalanche chutes leading to The Fist).
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Once at the saddle, the fun begins. Head up the gully sticking fairly close
to the right. Although steep (and worthy of a moderate scramble on its own),
under dry conditions, the rock forms "giant steps like a ladder"
(at least according to Enrique). It definitely beats super steep scree. Unfortunately, with all the rain over the past
month, we had a
little creek flowing over the rock; thus slowing our ascent time
considerably.
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Near the crux, head right until
reaching a small ledge at the base of the crux. The route is well delineated
by multiple cairns. The crux will be obvious since there won't be anywhere
else to go but up.
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There are many route descriptions in different
websites, but suffice it to say, all are hard and exposed; and need to be
individualized based on personal preference. Curiously, route finding was
simple since all routes were visible; and the least psychologically
traumatizing route was always the correct one. While on paper, Mount Smuts is
a scramble; there are definitely exposed spots which would best be defined
as an unprotected 5.4 climb in hiking boots. Personally, I found great
comfort in using the two chimneys along the way. Being wedged in with rock
on 3 sides seemed very reassuring even if it was a straight drop down.
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In truth, the ascent was
incredibly fun scrambling. It was more the thought of descending that
created an Imodium moment. A previous logbook entry summarized it
best: "Great scramble. Now how do I get down". As with most
difficult climbs, the solution is simple: bring rope (and Enrique). Like
other forms of protection, you might not need it, but its always good
knowing its there. Once past the crux, there is a long ridge leading to the
true summit. The views up top are spectacular.
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The Kane descent route is
definitely preferable (and in fact much of the rubble has been cleaned off
the rock by the multitude of climbers who have come by). Nonetheless, I
have nothing nice to say.
Walk past the summit along the
ridge. At the northern most end, there is a cairn marking the gully to the
left. This gully is essentially one long downclimb along a series of rock
ledges. While perfectly feasible without protection, I really don't see
this as scrambling. Sometimes its simply faster (and less anxiety
provoking to the observer) to lower by rope; particularly given a
conveniently placed anchor.
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Once past the gully, there is a
traverse (on the other side of the mountain) back to the saddle. From the
saddle, its a quick descent into the valley and a not so quick return to
the car. |
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