Nigel Peak

 August 2009

 

Elevation:3200m Gain: 1200m Difficulty level: Moderate (if dry)
Ascent time: 5 hours  Total trip time: 8 hrs Conditions: Alpine

Parking area: Wilcox Campground Parking Lot (2.7 km south of the Columbia Icefields Centre)

 

     

The views from Nigel Peak are some of the best in the Rockies. A short approach (if dry), interesting scrambling, and fantastic scree skiing make for an outstanding scramble. The only downside being the logistics of getting to the Columbia Icefields. However, its a personal preference as to the superiority of scrambles involving hours of hiking in nature's splendour along a (typically painful) long approach or spending those same hours driving in air conditioned comfort with Tim Horton's coffee (and McGriddle) in hand. 

 

 

ROUTE

Follow the Wilcox Trail for 5 minutes until coming to an opening in the forest to the right. Ascend a steep grass slope until reaching a low lying ridge.

Descend to the meadow below. Ascend just to the left of the stream/gulley (pictured to the left). Another group who took a route to the left of our route (other side of the rib) had tales of scree-filled misery. 
At the huge scree filled bowl, avoid the temptation to forge straight ahead. Head to the left (sticking close to the rib). The dark coloured scree consists largely of a mix of sand and shale; which is ideal for kick-stepping and makes for amazing scree skiing; thus restricting the misery to the ascent leader . 

Follow the ridge towards the summit block. As Kane and others have mentioned, bring an ice axe. Snow can persist well into summer. Follow the ridge line and traverse to the left of the summit block (dotted line).
Under dry conditions,  the snow can be avoided by moderate scrambling along the right rock edge. However, with the heavy precipitation and the cold summer this year, alpine conditions were in effect.  The final ascent is steep. Traveling on the snow is not scrambling. Travel along the glacier (left) should of course be avoided. An uncontrolled slide to the left would result in a long fall into any of the numerous crevasses we saw below. Paradoxically, the snow conditions made for a superb glissade down from the summit block. Also, a prior group (ty! tyvm!) had the inadvertent privilege of kicking steps in the snow.
On a sunny day, the summit would offer spectacular views of the Columbia Icefields and almost too many 11,000 footers too to count. With snow coming in, visibility was at a minimum and we were under time pressure to descend. However, the views at almost any elevation are spectacular and we were treated to sunny skies earlier in the day.

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